Pressure Switch & Well Controls in Birmingham, AL

When a well loses water, the first suspect should be the pressure switch and control box, not the pump. These are the controls that tell the pump when to run and when to stop, and they are the most common failure on a no-water call. A pressure switch is often around forty dollars in parts, and a submersible control box or capacitor is not far behind. Both are a fraction of a new pump, which is why we always test them first.

Pump won’t shut off, or won’t start

A pump that runs constantly is usually a switch that never reaches its cut-out pressure, a clogged sensing tube, or a system that cannot build pressure because of a leak or a waterlogged tank. A pump that will not start at all is often burned or pitted switch contacts, a failed control box, or a tripped breaker from a bad capacitor. We test each one instead of throwing parts at it.

Fixing the cause, not just the switch

A pressure switch that burns out quickly is telling you something. It is often a tank that lost its air charge and short-cycled the switch, or storm damage to the wiring, which is common around here. We set the cut-in and cut-out pressures to your system and confirm the pump starts and stops cleanly. If weak flow is the real complaint, our low water pressure diagnosis checks the switch, tank and pump together.

If you have no water and want it traced to the real cause, call us. We run same-day and 24/7 across the Birmingham metro.

What’s included

• Testing the pressure switch contacts, cut-in and cut-out settings, and the tube for clogging
• Checking the control box, capacitor and start components on submersible systems
• Inspecting wiring and connections for corrosion, burns or lightning damage
• Replacing the failed control and confirming the pump starts and stops on the right pressures

How it works

1. Start at the controls. We test the pressure switch and control box before the well. On no-water calls these are the most common failure and the cheapest to fix.
2. Find why it failed. A switch that burns out fast often points to a clogged sensing tube, a waterlogged tank or storm damage. We fix the cause, not just the part.
3. Set the pressures and confirm. We replace the failed control, set the cut-in and cut-out pressures to your system, and confirm the pump starts and stops cleanly.

Signs you need this service

• No water, but the pump and tank test fine
• The pump runs constantly and never shuts off
• The breaker trips when the pump tries to start
• Burned, pitted or corroded contacts inside the switch or control box